From Puerto Aventuras to Isla Mujeres, from Cozumel to Cancun, the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico has established itself as one of sport fishing's top vacation playgrounds, thanks to its wealth of luxurious hotels, numerous restaurants, fantastic night life and world-class sport-fishing opportunities. Each spring, sailfish and more sailfish migrate north through the famed Yucatan Channel to the bottom end of the Campeche Bank. If you crave light-tackle billfish action with plenty of chances, you need look no farther than the endless warmth of Mexico.
The "season," lasting from mid-March to well into June, produces the majority of fish caught here, but these 30- to 50-pound sails show off here year-round. While not quite as plentiful, blue and white marlin also live in the Yucatan's waters, along with loads of slammer dolphin, blackfin and yellowfin tuna, kingfish and wahoo. Conservation is the rule here, not the exception. Kites and live bait are outlawed and all billfish are released, and have been for decades.
While the area does offer many local charter boats -- 30-foot sport-fishermen reasonably priced at around $600 for a full day -- more and more boat owners are now making the steam south from Florida and the Gulf Coast of Texas. Not to be outdone, many boats from the Carolina sport-fishing fleet, whose dead-bait trolling expertise is second to none, thrive in these spectacular turquoise waters, with 15 to 25 releases per day the norm.
Almost all of the boats fishing the spring Yucatan bite specialize in light-tackle and fly-fishing techniques, and are accustomed to the art of teasing fish to the boat. Atlantic sailfish on fly are challenging and exciting, and this is one of the best spots to get the abundance of shots you need to make this dream a reality.
This combination of quality fishing, exceptional crews and "ethical" angling makes the Yucatan coast one of those special fisheries that brings crews and anglers back year after year, even during the relatively "slow" seasons where a boat might get "only" five shots for the day.
Varying Styles
Fishing the Yucatan is done in two basic areas and in two basic styles. Fishing off Isla Mujeres or Cancun means a 15-mile ride to the fishing grounds, but find the frigate birds on top of huge wads of bait, and you'll find the fish -- and lots of 'em. Large sardines and cigar minnows escape the intense current of the Yucatan Channel to the south and stack up solid on the flats, in about 90 to 120 feet of water. Pods of sailfish as well as occasional white marlin flourish with all this bait to be had. Unfortunately, so do world-record-class bonito and monster jack crevalles. Getting "covered up" with these tireless fighters causes many a captain and mate to utter more than an occasional obscenity.
To complete a grand slam attempt off Cancun, run another 30 minutes to the northeast, to the Arrowsmith Bank, where blue and white marlin can be had with regularity. By late May, the dolphin or "dorados" are thick on this bank, and barracuda bites are always a nuisance. Often this bank is alive with unusual sea life. Vast numbers of enormous whale sharks congregate here each year, and living balls of hundreds of juvenile lemon rays fly through the water at incredible speeds.
Fishing off Cozumel and Puerto Aventuras in the Yucatan Channel offers different challenges and strategies. Unlike Cancun, which has no edge to work, boats here slow-troll as close as 200 yards from the rugged, tropical Mexican mainland. Most crews use spinning tackle, and when the bite is on, boats hammer back hard as diesel smoke sends signals up and down the edge. The "white house," the "huts" or the "shrimp boat" are just some of the landmarks heard over the radio to indicate hot locations, and for the most part captains are courteous in relaying information.
When the white marlin show up in May, grand slams are a very real possibility. Much like with sailfish, it's not uncommon to be attacked or "covered up" by several finicky whites. Blue marlin swim the deeper waters of the channel, and June seems to be the best time for the 150- to 300-pound fish. And to achieve the super grand slam, try night-time swordfishing on both sides and in the middle of the channel. This fishing is underrated, though most of these fish are small, around 100 pounds. Unfortunately, most of these fish still end up in the cockpit.
Quality fishing is available to any of the area's four major marina and resort areas. Each offers a slightly different type of fishing package, but together they serve to meet the preferences of virtually any angler.
Isla Mujeres
Just 15 to 20 minutes by boat from Cancun is the relaxed Isla Mujeres, or "island of women." The small, rustic, ever-growing isle is still for the most part unspoiled. The friendly hospitality of its residents is sincere and they are genuinely glad you're there. Hotels and restaurants are plentiful and range from dirt-cheap to fancy smancy.
Located right in the center of town, Enrique Lima Zuno's dock, known as Club de Yates, is the oldest of the area's five marinas. It's a solitary structure and not very wide, but adequate with electric, fresh water and fuel accessible at your slip.
Centrally located in the middle of town, Enrique's 25-slip dock is walking distance from the ferry dock, lodging, provisioning and what night life Isla Mujeres has to offer. Another big advantage to berthing in Isla is the beautiful bait made available each day by local bait fisherman. Fresh, electric, purple-backed ballyhoo truly make the difference when trolling for sails, and Isla's boats have first pick as the bait boats then move to Cancun and southward with what's left.
New to the island's east end is the marina at Puerto Isla Mujeres Resort and Yacht Club. A full-service marina, it accommodates up to 61 boats of virtually any size, including mega-yachts. State-of-the-art concrete docks also provide electric and telephone hookups, satellite TV and fueling at your slip with all the comforts of home. To help prevent water spots on your boat, a freshwater softening system will be in place in the near future. Marina manager Capt. Pierre "Pete" Sanchez runs the operation there and is currently selling diesel fuel for only 79 cents a gallon, the cheapest I've found.
Located a full 20 minutes from town, this new resort features 30 single and double suites and a five-star restaurant adjacent to the marina. For those who do value nightlife, Sanchez also has arranged an hourly ferry service to and from the Hotel Zone in downtown Cancun. Sanchez offers three charter boats: a 38- and 46-foot Bertram and a 55-foot Ocean. While being somewhat isolated, Puerto Isla Mujeres offers luxury, comfort and privacy for those who desire more than just a fishing venue.
Cancun
One of the common misconceptions of sailfishing out of Cancun or Isla Mujeres is that the migrating fish just aren't there until late in the season, primarily the month of May. Popular thought says the fish are only along the edge off Cozumel and southward in the early spring. "Not so," explains Jim Schwarz, who along with his wife Linda run the show at Marina Hacienda Del Mar in Cancun.
"Capt. Chip Shafer and his Temptress, which is always one of the first boats to arrive each spring, has had fantastic fishing up here in March and April," Schwarz says. "Chip has also had many 20- to 30-bite days in late February." Located next to the Blue Bay Club Resort complex, Hacienda Del Mar's cramped wooden docks attract some of the finest sport-fishing boats, captains and crews anywhere on the circuit. Twenty-five-fish days are commonplace here when the bite is on, usually around the full moon phases.
A fairly large marina, Hacienda del Mar features 58 slips of all sizes. Without question, one of the biggest advantages to tying up at Hacienda Del Mar is Cancun itself. A 30-minute cab ride away, Cancun's amazing night clubs and bars dot the Hotel Zone area, which for some is half the reason to travel to the Yucatan in the first place.
Puerto Aventuras
Forty-five minutes south from the airport in Cancun, Puerto Aventuras boasts the largest and best-protected marina on the Yucatan Peninsula. Located on the mainland side, P.A., as it's known, is its own private community. The complex includes three mammoth hotels and condos, two grocery stores, numerous restaurants and night clubs, a private beach, and its own nine-hole golf course. P.A.'s dock master, Douglas Stooshinoff, expects 60 boats this season to help fill its 97-slip basin.
Mediterranean-style mooring at his main concrete wall features cable TV, good electric hookup and fresh water, but you must use a separate dock to take on fuel. Like every marina, water pressure is also a problem if you don't bring your own pressure pump. The only real negative to P.A.'s marina is the inlet right out front. While well marked, the narrow cut through the coral reef can be dangerous when entering or leaving under the wrong conditions. "Boats aren't having problems with the inlet anymore," Stooshinoff says. "Very simply, when it's impassable due to tides and extreme seas, no one ventures out until its safe."
Certainly, the major advantage to keeping your boat at Puerto Aventuras is that the sailfishing lies directly off the property. It's not uncommon for beachgoers to become interested in the fishing, as large pods of sailfish cruise the ripping north current right off the beach. But with so much pressure, many P.A. boats now run south as far as 20 miles past the ancient Mayan city of Tulum. Big release numbers are also the norm here for these new, fast Carolina boats. The "first on 'em ... first to catch 'em" attitude rules here.
P.A. offers six boats for charter, ranging from local pangas to a 47-foot Davis, and also hosts its own two-day billfish tournament in April.
Cozumel
Cozumel, or "island of swallows," has seen its share of serious anglers and crews over the years. Until the added pressure of boats from Puerto Aventuras, Cozumel was the base for spring sailfishing in the Yucatan. Worthwhile sailfishing still exists, and like Isla Mujeres, it's a wonderful place that still exudes the warmth of its unspoiled residents. Very accessible by water or air, Cozumel possesses its own airport and is just a short 20-minute ferry ride from Playa Del Carmen on the mainland side.
Club Nautico de Cozumel dock master Joaquin de Iturbide can handle 45 boats of all sizes in his marina, and it's obvious Club Nautico wants to again fill its marina, hurt by Puerto Aventuras across the channel. Reduced dockage and fuel prices, as much as 20 percent, should bring back a dockside atmosphere that made Club Nautico legendary. Along with outstanding hotels and restaurants and its intoxicating nightlife, Cozumel's truly a total package.
Club Nautico's fleet of six 32-foot Island Hopper boats and a new 35-footer are in very good condition, with experienced local crews who know their fishing grounds. Considering you may fish up to six people per boat, it's an excellent value at $300 for a half-day and $500 for a full day.
No matter where you choose to base your fishing, the Yucatan's unique mixture of outstanding shots, great night life, friendly locals and quality facilities makes this area one of the world's most enjoyable and enduring hot spots.